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Universal Tints compatible with most water, solvent, lacquer and oil based stains, coatings, shellacs, epoxies, waxes, varnishes, wood fillers, etc. Using these tints can make matching the stain color of a finish repair in a furniture finish much easier than mixing stains.
Color - Purple, furniture woods, Antique ice box, Humid weather and furniture
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More about color - Purple
Purple is a regal color. In the days of yore it was reserved for royalty only.
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Purple will create a mood of mystery, while at the same time adding a feeling of comfort.
While light purples can be used considerably it's best to limit darker purples to accent pieces. A piece of furniture painted in a medium to dark purple and trimmed in gold will add a touch of elegance to a room.
Purple will increase a feeling of romance.
More furniture woods
Cherry
Cherry is a popular wood for better furniture. It's kind of expensive so cherry veneer is used a lot to keep cost down and the grain pattern in veneer is by far prettier than you can normally get in solid wood.
Way back when the bark of the cherry tree was used to make bronchitis medicine.
Cherry has a straight grain and varies in color from a creamy white to redish brown and a very pleasant red.
Cherry is easy to work with and will take a nice finish. Staining is generally necessary to even out the color.
Redwood
These are the big ones. Redwoods have been known to grow over 350 feet tall and over 24 feet in diameter. There are slabs in existence that show that redwoods have lived to be over 2000 years old.
Redwood is used mainly for outdoor applications, such as decks, sidings and furniture.
Redwood will vary in color from a light tan color through various shades of red.
Redwood is very durable in outdoor applications. You need to be careful when you buy 'redwood items', lots of it is made of other woods and stained a sickly red color. If the color doesn't look good the item probably isn't true redwood.
Ash
Ash is a versitile wood and is used for furniture, almost any application in a home, skis and other sports equipment.
Ash will vary in color from almost white through light brown and yellowish. The grain is coarse, but will finish nicely, similar to oak.
Antique ice box
email question. . . . .
Hello,
I'm working on an early 1900's ice box which was painted both inside and out. The interior is some type of tin or galvanized metal. After stripping the metal clean, should I just leave it alone or clearcoat it with some type of product. The interior of the doors are metal also.
Thank You,
Chuck
Reply . . . . .
The metal could be either tin or galvanized and it could possibly be zinc too. Zinc was used quite a bit way back when. Since it's on the inside of an ice box it's probably something that shouldn't rust, but I think I'd take an extra few minutes to put a clear coat on it.
My choice would be shellac, it protects well, was a common product on antiques and is easy to use and sticks to almost anything.
You can get shellac flakes to make your own to insure freshness and good drying. Another good product is Zinsser Bullseye Seal Coat. This is shellac made with a patented process that keeps it workable for about three years. Shellac in general starts to deteriorate around a year after it's dissolved and won't dry as well, so lots of the stuff you buy off the shelf is near the end of its usable life. That's just it's dissolved liquid state, when it's used as a clear coat and has dried it's good for several hundred years.
There is some ice box hardware available if you need some.
Humid weather and furniture
Our daughter just returned from a three day visit to Palm Springs, Florida, a reward for exceptional work at her job. She had a fantastic time and was awed by the beauty of Florida.
She grew up in the heart of the Columbia Basin in the center of Washington state, so she's used to the near desert conditions that we have. Some areas are still desert, but some are irrigated by water from the extensive canal system of the Columbia Basin Irrigation project.
Anyway, to shorten a story that's getting windy, she said that the air in the area of Florida where she was is so humid you can almost wring water out of it.
Naturally, since I'm furniture oriented the thought went through my mind that there must be a lot of problems with furniture joints. In a humid area (above the comfort zone on a hygrometer) wood will expand a considerable amount and can put a lot of pressure on joints. A dehumidifier would give your furniture a lot of comfort and could extend it's trouble free life if you live in a humid area.
On the other end of the stick, if you live in an arrid area (below the comfort zone on a hygrometer), the joints on your furniture could suffer in the opposite direction. Dryness can cause a considerable shrinkage of wood. Your furniture would enjoy benefit from a humidifier.
One nice thing about furniture is that it likes to share, when it's comfortable it shares the comfort with you.
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