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If you have a mirror that has some silvering missing and you'd like to have it have a better appearance without too much expense see how to "resilver" the mirror in the information below.

Our wicker repair section has some good information for do-it-yourself wicker repair people, or soon to become wicker repair people.

Getting rid of icky bugs in the kitchen cupboard is covered below too. Don't send them as a care package to the people in the rain forest even though bugs are a good part of their diet. There may be something to that, you rarely ever see a chubby rain forest dweller in the documentaries about them.

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How to Resilver a Mirror Quickly, Easily and Cheaply

Do you have an antique mirror that has silvering beyond redemption or has lost some of its silvering? You can have it resilvered, which is pretty expensive, or you can resilver it yourself (not recommended), if you can find a kit, which is pretty expensive and quite dangerous, or you can do it the quick and easy way.

If there is just some silvering missing you won't need to remove the rest of it and if there are a few stains along with missing silvering, they add to the character of the piece, but if you need to remove the old silver (again, not recommended, very dangerous) you can scrape the old silver off with a scraper (be sure it's a safe scraper and not just a razor blade) or remove it chemically (still, not recommended, very dangerous). It's better to leave the old silver on the mirror.

Be sure to dispose of the residue properly, because it will contain mercury and other dangerous elements. Check with your local landfill people to find out how to dispose of the residue or dust. Wear a dust mask if you scrape the old silver off and be sure that it filters very very fine dust.

Here is a good example of some toxic disposal information

Now the undangerous part as long as you wear sturdy gloves to keep from getting cut on the edge of a mirror and wear eye protection.

1/8 inch mirror

Next you will need an inexpensive piece of 1/8" mirror large enough to put against the back of the original mirror. If the mirror is square or rectangular the job is done.

Shaped mirror

If the original mirror is shaped, then lay the original mirror on top of the new mirror and trace around the original mirror. If the mark is larger than the original mirror, be sure to remove the original mirror and reduce the size of the marked area so it will fit inside the rabbet of the frame. Next, using a glass cutter remove the excess mirror.

Ask for some scrap glass to practice on

If you haven't cut glass before ask for some scrap glass pieces, where you buy the mirror, to practice on. If you aren't too successful with your glass cutting, then have the glass shop cut the shape for you. They will charge a fee which will be considerably less than resilvering or replacing a shaped, beveled mirror.

Quick Tip.

When cutting glass only make one pass with the glass cutter. When the cutting tool scores the glass it sets up a vibration of the molecules of the glass throughout the thickness of the glass and the vibrating molecules are what makes the glass break where it does, not the score.

If you score the glass and let it sit while you go have a cup of coffee the vibration will have stopped and the glass will break wherever the notion strikes it rather than on the score.

If you make two passes with the cutting tool it will set up two sets of vibrations and the break will probably jump from one vibrating row to the next and it may follow the other vibration, or since it deviated from its original path, may take off for the north 40 outside of the vibrating line.

Wicker Repair Is Finally Here

The wicker section is finally here. Lots of information about weaving wicker, repairing wicker, chair caning and more wicker, rattan and cane information.

Learn how to repair the frame of a piece of wicker furniture. We have a cane catalog section for chair caning material, as well as other cane shapes and wicker catalog section for materials for wicker repair.

Beetles

If you have a problem with beetles infesting your flour, cereal and other items, the best way to get rid of them is to get rid of the infested items, then vacuum, clean, then seal them out.

The beetle larvae will look for any natural cracks and crevices to get into to pupate and if there aren't any natural places they will bore into cork, styrofoam, wood or any other soft material for protection until they become adult beetles.

Replace any corks and remove styrofoam or any other soft materials they may be in. Some labels are made of a foam material. Then after a thorough cleaning, use an approved insecticide, using an approved respirator, then paint the insides of your cupboards.

First a word about insecticides.

Insecticides aren't recommended for use in food storage areas. Insecticides should be used only as a last resort and even then you should learn all you can about the insecticide and after it's use it needs to be absolutely and totally sealed away from any type of food, no matter how the food is packaged.

Absolute proper personal protection is mandatory. If you use a spray can, when you spray into an enclosed area the spray will blow back out into your face.

If insecticides are necessary you should call a professional exterminator rather than making this part of ridding the bugs a do-it-yourself project.

Clean and seal

While all surfaces are dry, vacuum all surfaces and be sure to pay close attention to any cracks, crevices and beetle holes in the wood. After the vacuuming dump the vacuum cleaner bag or cup outside in the garbage, then clean the insides of the cupboards with a good household cleaner.

You'll want to seal up any cracks and crannies or previous beetle holes, so it's best to go over the whole interior area with liquid deglosser to be sure that the paint will stick to every possible surface. Then an undercoat, Kilz is a very good one, especially for kitchen surfaces. Kilz will cover anything including wax and oily cooking residue which floats in the air every time you cook. Be sure to daub into any cracks, so that they will get filled.

Cleaning alone will eliminate some beetle pupae and vacuuming will take care of a large amount, the liquid deglosser will get some more that may be hardy types. If any real hardy chest pounders make it through all that they will generally meet their demise when they are sealed into Kilz.

After the Kilz, apply a coat of washable semi-gloss paint.

Eliminating places for the beetles to pupate

When you're eliminating places for the beetles to pupate, be sure to check things like labels, some bottles have thin foam labels to protect the bottles and would make good nesting places. Replace the labels with self sticking labels you can write on. Put anything else you can in glass containers. Beetles can bore into plastic, but plastic bags that will zip shut can be use as a temporary measure, at least until you're sure that you've gotten rid of the little bugs.

Try not to be too grossed out by the bugs, remember that there are cultures where bugs are a delicacy. (Bleck!)

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